Notable exceptions being, Road America, Daytona, and Monza. Given those parameters, it is pretty clear that the aero balance tune is unaffected by straight line speeds on most road courses generally speaking.
#Ibooster f1 full#
So I would assume that any type of active wing would be in full downforce mode in the corners and full low drag on the straights going to full downforce as the car enters the brake zones. That's with 440ish HP and a 5-speed G50 geared at 3.44 final and a.
Terminal speed on the front straight is about 130mph and on the back straight about 140mph. Since I have run my car mostly at COTA that would be the 16-17-18-19 complex and secondarily t-10. My limited experience has indicated that the fastest corner on the course is the one you try to aero balance. The solution was a dual motion bracket (1) slide down to clear the bottom of the dashboard and (2) pivot to provide access to the control panel. I considered hinging the ECU, but there wasn’t enough space for it to pivot in place. I already hate doing anything under the dash and that’s only going to get worst when the interior is finished which made it important that the control panel was easily accessible. The only location was under the dash where a normal car would have a glove box. The ECU must be in one of two orientations for the accelerometers to work and you need access to the control panel. Front-engine cars mount the ECU in the trunk and the Ferraris mount it under the passenger seat, neither of which is feasible in the SL-C. I called Aeromotions and they confirmed that the ECU will not tolerate any moisture.
#Ibooster f1 install#
There are no instructions regarding mounting and when I went to install it I realized that it had a cooling fan. It has four feet with mounting holes so that should be simple, right? Nope… I finally got around to mounting the EC for the active wing. I never ran it on the dyno because I wasn’t chasing a specific number, so the official HP spec is “more than enough.” The engine had a 428 stroker crank and, when I had it rebuilt, I simply requested the best internals. It has a 1966 427 side-oiler with Webber 48 IDAs. You’re advocating a lightweight, no-frills build which is a good objective, but I’ve been there and done that 32 years ago (wow I’m old) I built an ERA cobra – their cobras are as nice as their GT40s. The better thing is that, to my wife’s dismay, I’m not limited to one home-built car.
Neil, I take your point, but I haven’t seen a SL-C that approaches the barn door comparison. This is my lightweight, analog build (I need to take some better pictures). More importantly, the ecosystem didn’t exist – forums like this, deeply knowledgeable automotive friends, internet-based research/tutorials/suppliers, affordable CAD/CAM, 3D scanning/printing, configurable ECUs, active aero, electromechanical accessories that aren’t tied to a belt or vacuum, manufacturing services like SendCutSend and 3D Hubs, etc. I didn’t have the time, money, knowledge or tools. It would have been impossible to build a car like my SL-C when I built the cobra.
My SL-C is a completely different animal. Smile per mile is high and it doesn’t have a once of non-required weight. The only modern nods are a 5-speed transmission, electric radiator fan, MSD ignition, a hidden USB charging port and ceramic coating on the headers and side pipes. Click to expand.The better thing is that, to my wife’s dismay, I’m not limited to one home-built car.
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